Fixed: OpenVPN Error Cannot open /etc/openvpn/easy-rsa/2.0/keys/dh1024.pem for DH parameters

openvpn

 

I just got OpenVPN running on my home network today. I used this easy to follow guide for Windows: https://community.openvpn.net/openvpn/wiki/Easy_Windows_Guide. I did this on Windows 7. I actually had to start over a few times because I didn’t follow the instructions carefully. When I got to the last step, “Starting OpenVPN”, I ran into trouble: I kept getting this error:

Cannot open dh1024.pem for DH parameters: error:0200100D:system library:fopen:Permission denied: error:2006D002:BIO routines:BIO_new_file:system lib

I looked through my files, and I could see that dh1024.pem was in my OpenVPN install folder, I also seemed to have no issues when I generated the Diffie Hellman parameters with build-dh. After clicking around in my folders a few times, I realized that OpenVPN installed to “\Program Files (x86)\OpenVPN”. The entire guide assumes that OpenVPN is installed at “\Program Files\OpenVPN”.

If you look at Preparatory Step #1 in the easy Windows guide for VPN, you’ll see that they ask you go into “\Program Files\OpenVPN”

Once I figured out that the program was looking for dh1024.pem in the wrong place, I just moved my OpenVPN folder from Program Files (x86) to Program Files. In fact, you should probably just install OpenVPN to “Program Files” right from the get go in order to avoid any issues with the guide linked above.

I also wanted to note that I have very limited experience with command line prompts. I had to use MS-DOS back in the day, that’s about it. I hope this guide helps anyone who also got stuck at the last step.

QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll Review: The Search for a Matte 27″ Korean IPS Monitor

qnix-qx2710-led-evolution-ii

 

The Long & Short:
I ended up getting a QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll DPort [Matte]. The title to this post is a bit misleading, this monitor is actually a PLS panel, but everyone knows these as Korean 27″ IPS monitors right?

Price:
The total came out to $359, I bought this from accessorieswhole on eBay. This person was recommended on some other forums and I have no reason to contradict them. I paid for this item on 2/4/14 and by 2/7/14 I had this up and running. 3 days from South Korea to my doorstep, not bad at all.

Requirements:
This is what I needed from this monitor:

  • 27″
  • WQHD 2560×1440 Resolution
  • DisplayPort
  • HDMI
  • Dual DVI
  • OSD
  • PLS/IPS
  • Sub $400

Check, check, and check. All requirements satisfied.

Performance:
I am no expert in this area, I have this next to a 27″ Planar LED and so far it looks better. I’ve heard that the stands on these monitors can be pretty wobbly but I have no problem with mine. My wife has been using this monitor daily for the past 3 weeks or so with no complaints so far. I will probably revisit this post in a few months with an update.

Notes:

  • No issues with installation, I’m in the US and I had no problems with the power cord or anything.
  • Pretty good packaging, no damage.
  • Actually, the item that I ordered was “X-STAR DP2710 LED MDP [Matte] 27″ 2560×1440 PLS QHD Panel DP HDMI DVI PC Monitor” but the seller notified me that they were out of the X-STAR and that the QX7210 and DP271 are identical items. X-STAR and QNIX monitors are made by the same manufacturer.
  • If I had one thing to complain about is that the price of these monitors will probably go down.

Resources:
The following pages were very helpful in my search for a budget 27″ IPS/PLS monitor.

  • http://www.overclock.net/t/1385993/best-korean-2560×1440-ips-27-monitor-atm
  • http://techreport.com/review/23291/those-27-inch-ips-displays-from-korea-are-for-real
  • http://www.pcworld.com/article/2010024/inside-the-shadowy-underground-of-korean-monitor-sales.html (sorry there’s a video that auto plays)
  • http://www.tested.com/tech/pcs/449537-korean-monitor-guide/
  • http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/a-great-27-inch-lcd-monitor/

Review: Leverage i5 iPhone 5 Case from Graft Concepts

Graft Concepts Leverage i5 iPhone 5 Case Hinge

Yes!

The case I’ve been searching high and low for. It arrived at work this afternoon.

Requirements for case:

  • Has metal on it
  • Looks cool
  • Less than $100
  • Doesn’t affect reception significantly
  • Able to be removed with tools
  • Protects the edges of the phone
  • Back/front won’t touch the surface of whatever I’m laying it on.
  • Back/front will be naked with bumper on

Leverage i5 from Graft Concepts: Fulfills all requirements above.

I went with the matte/black without the back cover. Ordered it from TekCases on eBay to save on shipping, they seem legit.

I’ll admit that I’ve had it for maybe only 8 hours but I’m totally in love with this thing. While indoors, my phone signal ranges from around -70 to -80. If you have no idea what I’m talking about, you’ll want to check this post out. I was on a conference call indoors for about 30 minutes and had no trouble. I will definitely update this post with more feedback regarding reception.

I’ve removed the case three times so far, and it’s been very simple. Cut outs for everything seem to work pretty well, I haven’t used earbuds on it. The mute/screen lock switch is not the easiest to reach, but I have no problems with it. Volume rocker and power/sleep button seems pretty solid.

I searched for so long for a case like this… until I stumbled onto this post! Pic spam follows:

 

Gmail/Chrome and Safari/Mail Comparison for iPhone

It’s been almost 2 weeks since I’ve completely stopped using the default Mail and Safari app on my phone.

So far so good. I am aware that the Safari browser is optimized to run the fastest on the iPhone but the benefits of tab syncing and tab management have outweighed any cons so far.

For Mail, my primary account is Gmail, so switching completely over to the Gmail app has been pretty painless so far. I use the labels feature alot, and I didn’t like how the Mail app handles it.

As far as I can tell, I’ll be using the Chrome and Gmail app indefinitely… until iOS 6.0 drops. I will probably check out the default apps again.

Diablo 3 Hardware Performance on the Radeon HD 5770/6770 & APU A8-3870k

Just a quick post.

If any of you have asked yourself either of the following questions:

Will Diablo 3 run smoothly on the 5770?

or

How well does D3 run on the A8-3870K Fusion APU?

The answer to both is, very well and on high settings. I’ve been playing D3 on the 5770 and my wife has been running Diablo 3 on her APU, we’ve both been playing at 1920×1080 with no problems.

Getting Magnet links to work with uTorrent when using Chrome – Fixed

So after a certain site decided to not host .torrent files and switch over to magnet links, I had a problem getting Chrome to open magnet links automatically in uTorrent. After reading up on the news, I poked around on uTorrent and Chrome to see if I can get it working, but no luck. I just dealt with it for awhile, but today I just got annoyed. If you were like me, this is what you had to do in order to grab a file using the magnet link.

  1. Find torrent.
  2. Right click the little magnet icon in Chrome.
  3. Launch uTorrent.
  4. Click “Add Torrent from URL”
  5. Paste magnet link into field, press enter.
  6. Download Starts.

6 steps, not bad if you just wanted to download a file or two. Way too annoying for anything more than that.

Let’s go into the fix. Please note that I’ve only tried this on my computer. I’m running the latest version of Chrome (17.0.963.83 m) and uTorrent (3.1.2) on Windows 7 Professional 64-bit.

First, let’s check your registry.

  1. Hit windows key.
  2. Type in “regedit” without the quotes.
  3. Navigate to HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\Magnet\shell\open\command\
  4. This is what you’ll see (below)
    utorrent as program to open magnet links in regedit
    Now, where the arrow is pointing – you want to make sure that is where your uTorrent is located. I have mine located in a different folder than the default install directory, so watch out for that.
  5. Next,  navigate to the following folder. C:\Users\[your_user_name]\AppData\Local\Google\Chrome\User Data
  6. Close Chrome Completely. (The first time I did this, I didn’t close Chrome, so my changes didn’t get saved)
  7. Edit the “Local State” file.
  8. Hit Ctrl+F and look for “magnet”
    make sure it says false next to magnet
  9. You want to make sure this is what you see “magnet”: false, for me, it started out as true.
  10. Save and close file
  11. Boom. Done.

Good luck. Hope it helped out.

AMD A8-3870K APU Overview

AMD A8-3870K Unlocked 3.0GHz Socket FM1 Quad-Core Desktop APU with DirectX 11 Graphic

Info & Intro

Product Page for:
AMD A8-3870K Unlocked 3.0GHz Socket FM1 Quad-Core Desktop APU with DirectX 11 Graphic

This was paired with the GIGABYTE A75M-D2H motherboard. I went with this APU for 2 reasons. Firstly, I really wanted to try out one of these APUs. Secondly, I needed to keep the budget low for my wife’s gaming PC. I  needed something better than the typical integrated graphics to tide her over while she waits for my 5770. This was also my first time using an FM1 slot product. I rarely ever modify or overclock my computer parts, so this APU is running on stock settings with the stock heatsink and fan.

Pictures

retail box and items for the 3870k
What’s in the box: CPU, AMD Vision sticker, Heatsinks/Fan Combo, Manual

 


A8-3870K APU from AMD installed into a FM1 Slot

AMD 3870k APU & G.Skill Ripjaws Series F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL
Heatsink and Fan’ed up

Specs:

  • 4 core
  • Base speed 3000MHz
  • FM1 Slot
  • 100W
  • DDR3 Ram
  • L1 Cache : 128KBx4
  • L2 Cache: 1024KBx4
  • 32nm

Comments

The computer has been in use with this APU for about 10 days now, everything’s running pretty well. My wife doesn’t play the latest gen games or anything. So far I’ve tried Lara Croft & The Guardian of Light on it, ran it on medium settings and it ran fine. She plays Heroes of Might and Magic V for about 2-3 hours per session on it, and the game runs smoothly from what I see. Nothing negative to say about this APU.

 

 

A75M-D2H from Gigabyte: An Overview

GIGABYTE GA-A75M-D2H Micro ATX AMD Motherboard
Info & Intro


GIGABYTE GA-A75M-D2H Micro ATX AMD Motherboard

Used this in my wife’s computer. Just needed a FM1 motherboard to use. Went with the A75 over the A55 for USB 3.0. I don’t have any USB 3.0 devices, but decided it was worth the $20 bucks for futureproofing. Like the Core 1000 case, this was my first time dealing with the Micro ATX format. I went with this motherboard specifically because it had an HDMI output in the back, on top of the usual DVI-D & VGA.

Product Shots

gigabyte a75m-d2h unboxing

In the box, 2x SATA 3.0 cables, 1x Motherboard Backplate, the motherboard, drivers, and the manual.

 

plugging in the front audio connectors for the Core 1000 case

Installing the HD Audio cable for the front of the case.

 

gigabyte a75m-d2h motherboard
Putting all the cables in before mounting the motherboard onto the case.

 

Connecting the wires for the LEDs at the front of the core 1000 case before mounting the motherboard

More case front cables

 

Giga-byte A75m-D2H FM1 Motherboard

The motherboard with the 3870k installed.

 

A75M-D2H Backplate installed on Fractal Designs Core 1000

Shot of the backplate for the A75M-D2H

 

Specs

  • FM1 Slot
  • A75 Chipset
  • 2x DDR3 Slots
  • APU Graphics: AMD Radeon 6550D
  • Display Adapters: 1x VGA, 1x DVI-D, 1x HDMI
  • 1Mbit Ethernet
  • 1x PCIE x16, running @ x16
  • 1x PCIE x16, running @ x4
  • 1x PCIE x1
  • 1x PCI slot
  • 6x SATA 6Gb/s
  • USB 3.0
Notes:
I’m skipping the pro’s and con’s this time around. I don’t have much to say this time around. Some may feel limited by the 2x DDR3 RAM slots, but I already knew this going in. The motherboard works well, the computer is running very quietly with the GPU & CPU combined into one chip. It’s only been a week but I haven’t had any issues with setting up this motherboard nor running it.
On top of being my first Micro ATX motherboard, it was my first FM1 slot product. Installation of the CPU was also simple. However, I do have one gripe with this motherboard, I wish it included the Q-Connector that came with my ASUS M4A79XTD EVO. In fact, I hope all motherboards will include this handy little part in the future. To compensate for the lack of this accessory, I just plugged in all the front cables before putting the motherboard inside the case.

Fractal Design’s Core 1000 Micro ATX Computer Case Review


(image courtesy of Fractal Design)

Update 5/5/13

So it’s been over a year since I had this set up. I just opened it up for a dust cleaning because the fan was starting to get loud – I figured it was the CPU fan. There was definitely alot of dust on the side intake fan which I took care of, and there was some obvious dust build up on the front. However – I noticed that the inside was fairly clean.

Upon further inspection, I noticed that the front intake fan had come loose from the fan clips (no screw mechanism). Also, there was no way to remove the foam dust filter that’s sandwiched between the mesh and the plastic, but a vacuum took care of that. I’ve updated the “Cons” section regarding the fan clips and the cleaning issue.

Info & Intro

Official Product Page for the Core 1000

This case is used for my wife’s computer, aka Project DWAEJI, this is also my 3rd case review, the most recent one being the one for the A90. It’s already my 3rd case review. This is the first Micro ATX case that I’ve built a computer in. The reason I went with this form factor is because there isn’t too much space left in my room. I wanted a computer that had a smaller footprint than a mid ATX case, but at the same time I still wanted to be able to fit a full length video card in the case. Once I upgrade to a new video card, my old 5770 will most likely be going in this computer.

Unboxing

front view of the core 1000 packaging
Front of packaging

box for the core 1000 case
Back of packaging with a diagram


Well packaged!

Front View of the Core 1000 Micro ATX case
Front

Left Side of the Fractal Designs Core 1000 Case
Left side – any white flecks you see are from the foam packaging (I started taking pics as soon as I took it out of the box)

front corner shot of core 1000 micro atx case
Top left corner from the front.

what's inside the box for core 1000 case
The manual inside and a box w/ all the screws/accessories on the right.

the rear of the Core 1000 Micro ATX case with all panels removed
Shot of the rear with the left, right, and hard drive panels removed.

Fan Mount for Fractal Designs Core 1000 micro ATX case
Clip on mount for front fan

Fractal Design Core 1000 hard drive cage
SSD mounted inside the hard drive cage.

Specs

  • Weight: 9 pounds
  • Dimensions 6.9 x 13.2 x 16.5 Inches
  • 1x 120mm Front Fan included
  • Optional 1x 92mm rear fan and 1x 120mm side fan
  • Top mounted PSU
  • Removable hard drive panel
  • Accommodates videocards up to 13.8 inches
Noise Level
Hard to compare it to my past computers. This is the first computer I’ve built that didn’t have a video card, so obviously it’s much more quiet. Although this is a cheaper case, it’s pretty well built, no rattling or anything while the computer is on.
Pros
  • Cheap ($35 for me from NCIX)
  • Sturdy
  • Nice simple design
  • No sharp edges on the inside… love it! I didn’t cut/scratch myself.
  • Nice dedicated space inside the HD cage area for the SSD
Cons
  • Manual was sparse. I played around the case by unscrewing the panels to check it out before I started putting parts inside.
  • After ordering the case, I forgot that the power/reset buttons and usb/audio plugs were on the front right of the case. Not a big deal, but that’s how they achieved the super clean look up front.
  • Not much space for cable management. Definitely go for a Modular PSU if you are going for this case – or any micro ATX case for that matter.
  • Blue LED on the side of the bezel is very bright! I put something in front of the light to block it.
  • Fan clip isn’t too secure – in the manufacturer’s defense, I moved the case around quite a bit in the year that I had it set up.
  • Front dust filter isn’t removeable – I cleaned it with a vacuum cleaner.
Notes
  • I saw reviews saying that the SSD mount in the hard drive cage was hard to put back on. I’m pretty sure they were referring to the SSD mount at least. It wasn’t easy, I probably spent 4-5 minutes putting it back on, but it wasn’t troublesome enough to be a con.
  • It was my first time working with a micro ATX case, so I planned ahead by getting a modular PSU and also plugging in the cables for the front panel LEDs & plugs before installing the motherboard. In the end it wasn’t a problem at all. I will definitely continue to plug in all the front panel cables before mounting the motherboard in the future.

New Computer Build: Project DWAEJI

All the parts to be used for my wife’s computer

 

gathering all the parts together

 

Mission: Computer with a smaller footprint capable of light to mid level gaming. Needed to be able to support a video card as soon as I upgrade my computer.
Budget: $400

  • Fractal Designs Core 1000 Micro ATX Case
  • OCZ ModXStream Pro 600W Modular Power Supply
  • Gigabyte A75m-D2H Motherboard
  • AMD A8-3870K APU
  • Plextor PX-128M3 SSD
  • G.SKILL F3-12800CL9d-8GBRL Ripjaws 8GB DDR3 1600 F
  • ASUS SDRW-08D2S-U External DVD-RW
  • Chrome Decepticon Badge
Build details and individual parts review to follow.